June 2011

June 3, 2011

Received the new wiring harness today from Advance auto wire. Very nice, well built with very high quality components and wires.

This should be interesting as the instructions supplied are for a Spitfire 1500 and a 1969 to 1972 TR6. Advance does not have an instruction manual for a GT6 so I’ll need to piece this together using the Spitfire and TR6 instructions as well as the original factory wiring diagram for the GT6. This should not be a big deal. I’ll develop an “As-Built” wiring diagram for the GT6 and send a copy to Advance.

I have 2 disappointments with the wiring harness:

  1. There is no provision for the rear window demister. I guess they just missed this as Spits and TR6’s did not have these. I can easily make provisions for a work around but for now I’m not going to worry about it. The heating grid in the hatch back window has no continuity in it. This grid obviously failed quite a while ago – from old age. Based on how I plan to use the car I’ll never need it anyway but I will run wires from the dash to the back so that it can be hooked up with little effort if I want to replace the rear window in the future.
  2. The ideal installation place for the Harness’ “Power Block” would be (at least in my mind) behind the seats in the wells used for the “occasional seats” but the wires supplied with the harness are too short to accommodate this location and I do not want to splice sections into all the wires going to the front end. This is my fault as I should have picked up on this and ordered the harness with extended lengths. I did not want to mount the power block under the battery box as this will just be a kicking target for any passenger. Decided to install the power block on the driver side if front of the door jam. It will tuck in there O.K. and be accessible for maintenance. Also as the driver will be aware of it, it should not get in the way of the accidental kick.

June 9, 2011

This harness requires the installation of a 2 wire GM alternator so I bought one from the local Auto-Zone. Should be an improvement over the 30 amp. Lucas.

The strategy for this harness requires that the Lucas 16ACR alternator be replaced with a 2-wire GM alternator. I bought a GM model P7127M12 alternator from Auto-Zone (about $50, I kept the Lucas so also paid a $15 core charge). The trick is to mount the GM alternator to the factory Lucas mounting bracket which is a 3 1/4 inch barrel bracket with a 1/4 in. bore. The GM alternator has a 2 inch bottom barrel mount built in (with a 3/8 inch bore). I bought a universal mounting bracket kit (model A200) from "QUICK-START" High Output Alternators for around $45. This consists of 4 L-Shaped brackets and bolting hardware.

It is a little bit of a puzzle to assemble in the correct sequence so as not to get bolt-bound. The factory upper belt-tensioner bracket is re-used, just flip it over so that the "J" end is pointed down and it is a perfect fit. I even re-used the same belt.

It took less than 2 hours and it results in a professional installation with no cutting, drilling or machining.

Also ordered a new radiator as the existing one is not original and it interferes with the alternator. Ordered the radiator from Rimmer Bros.

June 11, 2011

Pulled the heater box assembly. Tested fan and it runs great at both speeds. Heater core is in great shape.

Assembly just needs cleaning and painting.

June 14, 2011

Continued to work on the dash. Received most of the new dash components. Been buying from “SpitBits”, Rimmer and VictoriaBritish. They all seem fine to me.

Received my new radiator today. Very nice. Not a re-core but a brand new one.

June 16, 2011

Cleaned and painted the Heater box assay – inside and out. Cleaned up the control switch which is an ingenious little electrical/mechanical device, a very nicely built and designed component.

June 20, 2011

Started the wiring harness installation. Instructions have a good, general installation procedure so I think I’ll just follow it.

June 22, 2011

Re-installed the Heater box assay. Much easier to remove that to install, but would have been much easier with another set of hands. I definitely did it the hard way – by myself.

June 24 - July 4, 2011

Continued with the wiring harness. All connections (Except Bullets) are crimped, then soldered and covered with shrink wrap. Fixing many little things as I find them. Replaced the Reverse switch while everything is open.

Took the shift linkage out to get to the reverse switch so I tightened things up and replaced bushings. Seemed like much tighter linkage after I reinstalled.

Ordered new Head Lamp Bucket / Bracket assemblies. The old ones had seen better days.